Simply Sublime Suits
June 6th, 2018
If you’re a man living and working in NYC there’s a good chance you’re going to need a suit. Whether you need one for every day of the week or just something nice for special occasions, it pays to own a great suit. Don't know the first thing about buying a suit? Looking to update your wardrobe? Great! Stonehenge NYC is here to help. We’ve put together an essential guide to help you pick the perfect suit! Off The Rack: If you don’t have the time or the moolah to get a Bespoke suit, buying something off-the-rack is a great option. Even if it’s not a perfect fit, your tailor can adjust it to fit you like a glove. The important thing is to pick a suit that’s as close to a flawless fit as possible. Here are a few spots you'll need to get right. Shoulders: The most important place for a suit to fit right is in the shoulders--even the best tailors are going to have a tough time correcting an ill-fitting shoulder. The fabric should lay flat across your shoulders. The shoulder seam should line up perfectly with where your shoulder naturally ends. If the shoulders or upper-arms of your suit bulge and ripple when you move your arms a little, this isn’t the suit for you. The arm holes aren’t cut at the right height for your body, and there’s no fixing that. Pick a cut where the arm hole fits you naturally. Collar: The fit of your collar is the second-most-important thing to get right. You can spot an ill-fitting collar by the gap created between the back of your neck and and the collar. When you stand up normally, with your arms at your side, you should see no visible gaps or bunching behind the collar. Sleeves: The great thing about sleeves is how easy it is for a tailor to adjust them--if they’re too long. Your shirt sleeve needs to fall between the wrist bone and the knuckle of your thumb and your suit sleeve should be about a quarter of an inch shorter than that. When in doubt--buy longer sleeves. Jacket/Tails: Your suit jacket should be like a great lawyer--it should cover your butt. These days, it’s trendy to wear a suit with a slightly shorter cut, somewhere around the middle of your bum. Just make sure it doesn’t go any higher than that. Buttons/Closure: The part of your suit where you button it is called the closure. On a standard two-button suit you should never ever button the bottom button. You should also unbutton the suit when you sit down to avoid tugging, wrinkling and discomfort. When you button the suit it should fit your body well, with no tugging. If the fabric has to pull and crease it’s too tight. You want to avoid the dreaded X that will make it look like you’re wearing a child’s suit. Remember that a tailor can subtract fabric--not add it. If the suit is a little loose on you, that’s something a tailor can fix. Pants: No suit is complete without a great fitting pair of trousers. Both waist and length are easily adjusted, so feel free to buy them a little larger if need be. The seat of your pants should not be too baggy or too tight--it should flatter your backside. Pay attention to how the pants fit your legs. If you’ve got a slim frame, you’re going to want something more tapered and modern. If you’re a bit larger opt for a less-tapered classic fit. It's essential to wear pants with a rise that’s comfortable for you. The rise is the sensitive area where your legs come together. Low rise is fine on a pair of jeans, but can get really uncomfortable in a pair of dress pants. Leave enough room for the family jewels. A higher waist makes it easier to keep your shirt tucked in and makes your ties your suit together in a more classic way. Choosing Your Tailor: It doesn’t matter if you’re getting a suit custom made or just a few adjustments to an off-the-rack gem; you’re going to need a solid tailor. New York City is littered with great tailors, so picking a small business is a great idea. We only recommend you avoid tailors in giant department stores or shops that cater almost exclusively to weddings. They're more about quantity over quality. Want something that’s totally custom but aren’t sure where to start? Here are three great tailors, arranged from least to most expensive, who can create a beautiful bespoke suit just for you. Suit Supply: If you’re looking for something a cut above an off-the-rack option, Suit Supply is an awesome spot. They’ll let you try on one of their pre-made suits and then adjust it to fit you perfectly. They’ll also build you a totally custom suit if you’d rather do that. If your budget is around $400-$500 you really can’t go wrong with Suit Supply. Alan David: Alan David can build you an incredible suit in just a few weeks. They’ve provided the wardrobe for TV personalities, Senators and even the cast of Saturday Night Live. Since 1926 they’ve been one of the absolute best purveyors of custom suits and other formal wear. You’ll probably wind up spending a little over a grand for a suit, but you’ll look like a million bucks. Reeves: Reeves brings the very best of English tailoring to New York City. This is where Tom Hardy, Bryan Cranston and even Nick Kroll go when they’re looking for a truly amazing suit. These incredible suits take months to produce and cost a fortune, but they’ll last you a lifetime. Reeves is committed to maintaining, altering, and caring for your suit for your entire life.